Historically, some releases have been delightfully complex and fresh, but many have been spoiled by acetaldehydes (a sherry like bouquet, that is the hallmark of oxidation).Īn outlier indeed, but what to do? Cuvée Hemera Among the last of the grande marque prestige cuvées to be released (the current release is the 2000 vintage, disgorged after a whopping 17 years on lees), Enchanteleurs is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, produced from six Grand Cru villages. When tasting the prestige cuvée, Enchanteleurs, side-by-side with its Henriot siblings however, it was apparent what an outlier it had become. Like all Grandes Marques, Henriot want their tête de cuvée to be the best representation of their house style. A perfect definition of the modern Henriot style, and testament to Laurent’s prowess as a wine maker. This truly mesmerising cuvée avoids exaggerated oxidative tendencies that solera wines often possess, and is instead a fresh, creamy, spicily complex Champagne that maximises textural finesse.
Drawn from a Réserve Perpétuelle (solera) of Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (begun in 1990), just one thousand magnums are released every year. Laurent has been encouraged to innovate too, and a few years back the stunning ‘Cuvée 38’ Blanc de Blancs premiered. The vintage blanc and vintage rosé wines have also improved, and while still slightly oxidative in style, the full-on toffee aromas have been throttled back to a fresher, fruitier profile. The non-vintage wines are consistently on-form, with their relatively long ageing on lees, balancing fruit, complexity and freshness. The last decade has seen improvements across the entire range. However, thanks to Laurent’s thoughtful winemaking, quality at Champagne Henriot has finally headed in the right direction. A smattering of well-made Champagnes were interspersed with far too many average ones. Prior to Laurent’s arrival, the wines were, if I am honest, a bit hit and miss. And so it was when Laurent Fresnet (pictured) took over wine making duties at Henriot early in 2006. The consumer is often unaware of any change, while journalists wait patiently for the new Chef’s first constructions, which of course will not issue forth until several years later. Traditionally, the role of Champagne cellar master has been a silent one changes of personnel occur with little fanfare.
Without the stability of estate-grown fruit, Joseph had to rely heavily on his Chef de Cave, or cellar master, to manage and create a house style. Having been stripped of many of its viticultural assets by the previous owners, the house fulfilled its grape needs by purchasing fruit as required through long-term supply contracts with growers. Joseph inherited – or re-inherited – a Champagne house lacking in direction.
In the years that followed Henriot purchased important Burgundy domaines including the major négociant, Maison Bouchard, and William Fevre in Chablis. But in 1994 he took the decision to step down, buying back Champagne Henriot, and reuniting business with family. Joseph took up a role within LVMH and rose to become President of Veuve Clicquot. Born into a Champagne-producing family whose house was founded in 1808, he took over at Champagne Henriot in the 1960s, running it and Champagne Charles Heidsieck, which the family had also acquired, until both were sold to Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy in 1987. Joseph Henriot, who died in 2015, was one of French wine’s most important figures.
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